In the Champagne region’s vineyards, a seemingly small piece of packaging is fueling a substantial rift. The “coiffe”—the foil capsule that traditionally adorns the neck of a Champagne bottle—has become the subject of a contentious debate now playing out among growers, syndicates, and regulatory bodies. While many industry insiders once saw the coiffe as little more than a decorative standard, it has now come to symbolize deeper tensions over tradition, marketing, economic interests, and the true meaning of consensus in Champagne’s tightly knit wine community. The catalyst for the current dispute came in the summer of 2023, when European authorities unexpectedly signaled greater flexibility for bottle presentations—effectively declaring that the traditional foil covering might no longer be required. In response, the Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne (CIVC) requested an amendment to the appellation’s official specifications, making the coiffe mandatory
To make Champagne more accessible, the Syndicat Général des Vignerons de la Champagne (SGV) has developed a new sensory classification system. This system categorizes Champagnes into three profiles based on their dominant characteristics: vif (lively), fruité (fruity), and intense (intense). Designed to demystify the complexities of Champagne, this approach provides a straightforward way for winemakers to describe their products and for consumers to understand them more easily. Each profile in the classification system is identified by a logo and complemented by ten descriptive adjectives that provide a richer understanding of the wine’s character. This segmentation allows winemakers to tailor their descriptions, creating a direct and engaging way to communicate the essence of their Champagnes. The classification has been enthusiastically adopted by many producers. Through blind tastings, winemakers are able to assess their Champagnes without preconceived notions, ensuring accurate categorization. For
France’s agricultural community is grappling with rising tensions following the collapse of Michel Barnier’s government after a vote of no confidence on December 4. The fallout has sparked widespread discontent among farmers, culminating in an administrative strike called by the National Federation of Farmers’ Unions (FNSEA) and supported by the Young Farmers (JA) organization. This action, declared in response to unmet promises and stalled reforms, reflects deeper frustrations within the sector. Farmers have announced a suspension of all administrative inspections, with the exception of those required to unlock essential financial aid. The FNSEA and JA regional branches have emphasized that this measure will remain in place until the nation achieves political stability and concrete action is taken to address long-standing agricultural concerns. The strike highlights mounting dissatisfaction with the perceived inefficiency and overreach of administrative processes. Farmers are demanding the
In the early 18th century, the vineyards of Aloxe-Corton did not rank among Burgundy’s storied producers of long-lived wines. Their output was instead known as delicate, early-drinking reds—what we might call “primeurs.” It would take visionary owners, forward-thinking négociants, and centuries of experimentation for Aloxe-Corton to earn the reputation it enjoys today. Much of that journey involved the interplay between white and red wines, the evolving tastes of connoisseurs, and a commitment to innovation that would ultimately influence the entire region’s standing in the wine world. The hill of Corton lies at a pivotal geographic and cultural crossroads: it sits where the Côte de Beaune, with its distinguished white wines, meets the Côte de Nuits, celebrated for its structured Pinot Noirs. Aloxe-Corton’s history has swayed between these two realms. As early as the Middle Ages, certain texts mention a “Vinea
The recent ratification of the EU-Mercosur free trade agreement marks the conclusion of over two decades of negotiations. While many sectors of French agriculture—particularly beef, pork, and poultry—have expressed strong opposition, the wine industry has adopted a more balanced perspective. Although some winemakers remain cautious, many professional organizations within the sector see the agreement as a way to expand international access and foster growth in important markets like Brazil. For years, Brazil’s high tariffs—27% on still wines and 35% on sparkling wines—have posed significant barriers, effectively limiting access to one of South America’s largest and most dynamic markets. Recognizing this obstacle, the European Commission has consistently highlighted wine as a key beneficiary of the agreement, emphasizing the potential for reduced tariffs and improved market access. Additionally, the treaty protects 36 geographical indications (GIs) for European wines and spirits, including prestigious
Wine consumption in France continues to decline, with a 4.2% drop recorded in 2023 compared to 2022, according to the Observatoire Français des Drogues et des Tendances Addictives (OFDT). This decrease contributes to a broader trend of reduced alcohol consumption, which fell by 3.8% overall to six million hectoliters of pure alcohol in 2023, equating to an average of 10.35 liters per person over the age of 15. Despite remaining the most consumed alcoholic beverage in France, accounting for 52.4% of pure alcohol volumes, wine has been the hardest hit by shifting consumption patterns. Beer and spirits saw smaller declines of 2.6% and 3.9%, respectively, while beer sales have continued to grow since 2018, now representing 25.1% of all alcohol sales compared to 21.2% for spirits. The OFDT study highlights inflation as a contributing factor to declining alcohol sales. Prices
French wine continues to evolve, with new measures to refine its hierarchy and showcase the distinctiveness of its terroirs. The introduction of nine Complementary Geographical Designations (Dénomination Géographique Complémentaires/DGCs), recently approved for review by the National Committee for Appellations of Origin at the Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO), marks a significant step in this process. These DGCs aim to elevate specific regions within established appellations, blending tradition with a modern approach to wine classification. The nine proposed DGCs span various appellations, highlighting their unique characteristics: These additions aim to provide a clearer framework for distinguishing exceptional terroirs within larger appellations, fostering both regional identity and market competitiveness. The evaluation of these proposed DGCs is entrusted to four dedicated commissions focused on Bourgogne, Beaujolais, Bergerac, and Anjou-Saumur. This thorough process, expected to take two to three years,
Aurélien Joly, 38, has been named Chief Executive Officer of the wine division at Edmond de Rothschild Heritage, succeeding Boris Bréau, who held the position since 2015. With a proven track record and nearly a decade of experience at the institution, Joly is set to lead the division into a new era of growth and innovation. Joly’s journey at Edmond de Rothschild Heritage began in 2016, when he joined as a financial controller. He quickly ascended the ranks, taking on the role of Director of Administration and Finance. With a master’s degree in business management and extensive experience in the agri-food and wine industries, Joly’s expertise has been instrumental in shaping the division’s strategic direction. Before joining Edmond de Rothschild Heritage, Joly worked at Bardinet, part of the La Martiniquaise group, where he oversaw significant international projects in the wine
A scandal of unprecedented scale has rocked Taiwan’s wine-collecting community, uncovering a massive counterfeit wine operation allegedly involving two local companies, Top 100 Wine and UMC. With estimated losses reaching €300 million. At the heart of the controversy is 67-year-old Wood Chen, a prominent Taiwanese tycoon and wine collector, best known as the former president of electronics giant Yageo Group. The first suspicions arose in late 2023, when a wealthy collector brought a bottle of Meursault 1er Cru Perrières by the renowned producer Coche-Dury to a private dinner. The bottle, purchased from UMC, was scrutinized by an exclusive agent of the winery who happened to be present. The wine’s lackluster quality and inconsistencies on the label raised immediate red flags. Word of possible counterfeits quickly spread among Taiwanese wine aficionados. Investigations uncovered a significant number of fake bottles, all traced
In the Judeo-Christian tradition, wine has long played a symbolic and sacramental role, consistently woven through biblical texts and religious rites. The Book of Ecclesiastes, for example, encourages believers to enjoy their bread and wine, underscoring the notion that earthly pleasures can coexist with divine favor. Over the centuries, wine’s connection with faith has evolved into a highly ritualized aspect of Christian worship, most notably in the Catholic Mass, where wine is transformed into the blood of Christ. During the Catholic Eucharist, a small quantity of fermented grape juice—typically around five centiliters—is mixed with water in a chalice. Following the priest’s recitation of Christ’s words, “This is my body, this is my blood,” the wine is consecrated and no longer considered an ordinary beverage, but rather the true presence of Christ. Yet, the question remains: what makes a “Mass wine”
In September, the invasive African leafhopper (Jacobiasca lybica) was detected in a vineyard in La Londe-les-Maures, sparking immediate concern among winegrowers and agricultural authorities in the Var region. Known for its destructive effects on grapevines, this pest has raised alarms after confirmed reports of its presence in multiple communes along the Mediterranean coast. Following the initial discovery, the Var Chamber of Agriculture urged vineyard owners to report any unusual foliage damage. Reports were submitted from La Londe-les-Maures, Bormes-les-Mimosas, Ollioules, and Hyères, covering parcels ranging from small blocks to larger areas of up to four hectares. While the exact total area affected is unclear, the infestation appears widespread. Fortunately, the pest emerged late in the growing season, sparing grape clusters from direct harm and limiting damage to foliage. The African leafhopper displays no preference for specific grape varieties, affecting at least
A new biocontrol product, Axpera, has delivered impressive results in combating downy mildew in vineyards, demonstrating greater efficacy than standard copper-based treatments. Developed using lysates of amoebae, this innovative solution combines reduced copper doses with biocontrol technology to enhance disease management. Regulatory approval is anticipated by the end of 2025, making the product available for use in the 2026 vintage. Field trials conducted in the Gaillac region during an unusually wet 2024 growing season highlighted the product’s capabilities. With rainfall exceeding average levels by 147 mm, conditions were highly favorable for the spread of downy mildew, which devastated untreated grape clusters, affecting 95% and destroying 80% of them. Despite these challenges, a combination of Axpera, applied every 7 to 10 days, and a reduced copper dose of 2.38 kg/ha, achieved a 57.7% reduction in disease symptoms. This performance outpaced that